When Did Restaurant Salads Get So Big?
Context:
The trend of serving whole-leaf salads in restaurants is gaining popularity due to their visual appeal and practical functionality. Chefs across the United States, like Andrew DiTomo at Meetinghouse in Philadelphia, are creating towering salads meant to complement main dishes, emphasizing the textural integrity and dressing adhesion that whole leaves provide. Despite their dramatic presentation, these salads can be difficult to eat with traditional utensils, leading to some diners' frustration. The aesthetic and practical benefits of whole-leaf salads are highlighted by chefs like Kari Shaughnessy, who notes that chopped salads don't have the same visual impact. However, not all diners are convinced, with some preferring more manageable chopped salads, illustrating the ongoing debate about form versus function in culinary presentation.
Dive Deeper:
Meetinghouse in Philadelphia serves a salad that resembles an architectural structure, reaching up to a foot in height, designed to accompany meals like roast beef sandwiches or turkey cutlets.
Restaurants nationwide, such as Bar Parisette in Chicago and Salum in Dallas, are embracing whole-leaf salads for their dramatic appearance and effective dressing adhesion, despite the challenge of eating them gracefully.
Allison Scott, test kitchen director for Rick Bayless, and Kari Shaughnessy, chef at Hayward, both advocate for the practicality and visual appeal of whole-leaf salads, which maintain crispness and hold additional toppings well.
Historically, whole-leaf salads like the wedge salad and original Caesar salad have been staples in fine dining, and recent trends have revived this presentation style, as evidenced by establishments like Cozy Royale in Brooklyn.
Despite the advantages highlighted by chefs, some diners, such as Marie Tran-McCaslin, prefer chopped salads for their ease of consumption, reflecting a divide in preferences between traditional and modern salad presentations.
Abraham Salum, owner of Salum, remains committed to serving his Caesar salad with whole romaine leaves for its aesthetic and textural benefits but accommodates diners who prefer their salad chopped.
The ongoing trend and debate highlight a growing interest in the interplay of culinary aesthetics, practicality, and personal dining preferences in modern gastronomy.